My 1992 P11 has a sluggish right turn signal. When the rear flashers are activated, both rear lights flash quickly.  Thus, I assumed the front right turn signal had a poor connection. I rewired the connection from the fairing to the bike but the signal is still slow and sluggish unless I rev up the engine (making enough vibration to complete the circuit!). Any suggestions on what to try next?

The hazard flasher is separate from the turn signal flasher, that's why the rear lights flash OK. The hazard flasher is next to the battery on the right side, the t/s flasher is next to the starter solenoid on the left side under the side cover. The easiest thing to try is substitution, swap the flashers and see what happens. Usually when there is a problem with one side not flashing, it's a mismatched bulb set that causes it. You can try swapping bulbs and see what that does for you. The front T/S (and the headlight) do tend to suffer from bad connections in the fairing plug. If you still have the pursuit light flasher in the fairing, those are excellent flashers, just use the outside prongs and plug it in. Don't buy the Kawasaki flasher, they're overpriced, just get a heavy-duty one from the local auto parts store.

Question :
I have a 1989 kz1000. The automatic turning signal shut off has stop working.  I took it to the Kawasaki shop and they replaced it with a new unit but the problem is still there. They said that they would get a hold of the factory and find out what it could be, but it has been 6 or 7 months and nothing. The cable has been replaced also.  Still nothing.  Thanks for your help. Randy

The turn signal cancel function has three main components. The turn signal switch (on the handlebars), a reed switch in the speedometer, and a control unit that computes the distance traveled and sends a 12V signal pulse to the handlebar switch. The control unit is bolted to the bottom of the battery box on the right side of the motorcycle. 99% of the time, the solenoid in the handlebar switch burns out. The price of that switch will knock your socks off ($200+). You can check the switch with an ohm meter for continuity (it's a white wire with a green tracer) to ground. Or you can pull the green plug off under the left plastic side cover, apply +12V momentarily to the white/green wire on the wiring harness side of the plug (has male spade connectors in it) and see if the switch clicks. I normally repair those switches instead of replacing them.