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Messages - Motor Doctor
« on: September 06, 2014, 10:25:06 AM »
That oil is fine. Either it's an adjustment issue, it has a Barnett clutch in it or the steel plates are warped. Or as I mentioned earlier, the clutch lifter mechanism is worn out.
Here's a link for the adjustment procedure:
FAQ page/clutch release
« on: August 28, 2014, 06:30:09 PM »
What clutch do you have? What oil are you using?
« on: August 25, 2014, 05:45:52 AM »
Sounds like the clutch is dragging. I would do the clutch pushrod adjustment. Did you have the left engine cover off that has the clutch lifter mechanism in it? You may need to take it off again and check if everything is in place. 13102 in the attached picture is the part that wears out the most, where the cable attaches to it, the swivel pivot wears and the clutch doesn't disengage fully.
« on: August 15, 2014, 02:30:20 PM »
Thanks. I just put in an order for one...
« on: August 15, 2014, 02:29:09 PM »
The things that cause popping are exhaust leaks, lean idle fuel mixture, air injection vacuum leaks, reed valves in valve cover installed wrong/leaking/broken, air injection valve not working.
« on: August 06, 2014, 02:28:24 PM »
The original owners was a company named GT Associates, don't know if that does you any good
« on: August 01, 2014, 01:16:03 PM »
Your motorcycle was bought on 6/18/92 in TEHACHAPI, CA. Wasn't a PD but from the name it's hard to say what they did. Currently I'm located in NYC so that's probably a long drive for you. I actually haven't seen a Kawasaki police bike since I moved here. It's Harley land........
« on: July 30, 2014, 10:25:23 AM »
I would try the cable first as cables are relatively cheap compared to speedometers...... If the cable isn't turning smoothly, it will make the needle jump,
« on: July 23, 2014, 08:21:23 PM »
The oil leak is probably from around the stator rubber plug in the engine cover. Sometimes they leak through the wires. The mileage isn't the best on those but it should be in the 30s. I would check the engine state of tune (compression/spark plugs/air filter) and see how those are. The compression should be at least 150. Check the spark plugs, in the normal heat range they should be running clean. Check the ignition advancer to make sure it's not seized up and rotates freely.
« on: July 23, 2014, 03:42:00 PM »
Do you happen to know what size main jets are in it? Also did the jet needles get shimmed? Does it have a DynoJet kit in it? Stage one?
« on: July 17, 2014, 06:35:02 PM »
Getting the old bearings out is usually a real pain in the ass. They're rusted solid in the swingarm and you usually end up grinding/cutting them out. Personally I would just leave them alone unless they're coming apart. Of course you would want to grease them while you have it apart with a good waterproof grease. Putting a zerk fitting in is a real good idea so you don't have to take it apart again to grease them.
« on: May 17, 2014, 12:21:52 PM »
Don't really know that one. My source at KMC has left the building. I would guesstimate that the number would be between 15,000 ~ 20,000 units
« on: May 03, 2014, 01:19:40 PM »
The quickest way to do it is this:
Remove the headlight outer trim ring (phillips screw on bottom)
Reach in with some needle nosed pliers and pull the spring off that holds the headlight in.
Remove two nuts behind headlight
Remove two nuts that hold fairing bracket to crashbar
Tip fairing forward onto front fender, padded of course, with the lower fairing mounts resting on the crashbar.
When you've done that a couple of thousand times, it can be done in under a minute tops.....
The nuts holding the fairing to crashbar are SAE and the ones behind the headlight are metric.
You can also remove the two bolts that hold the front fairing mount to the frame but I never liked that method, it was harder to hold the fairing up while you're trying to start those bolts
We used to put a "pie slice" in the headlight retaining ring for spring clearance, made it easier to get it off the headlight holder.
« on: February 22, 2014, 06:21:12 PM »
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« on: February 22, 2014, 06:16:51 PM »
In normal police service about 5% of them will need replacement in a 50K mile interval. The ones that do need replacement all have one common element: the motor officer pressure washed his wheels in the bearing area and washed the bearing grease out. The service manual recommends re-packing the bearings at regular intervals but in reality you damage them removing them from the wheels. My suggestion is to check them when changing tires for smooth operation and any play. Anything out of the ordinary, just replace them.
I had a funeral escort rider with a rear wheel bearing that had lost over half the balls (disk side). It had three balls left. He had no money to repair it and rode it another month like that. My advice was to always look for a soft place to land
When he showed up a month later for replacement I said "go play the lottery, God has been smiling on you".
Check the wheels for bearing play also. I've seen old wheels with the bearing hole hammered out and the wheel moves excessively but the bearing are fine. If the wheel binds up when the axle is tightened, it has a missing or a too short spacer. Very common for people to lose the sprocket side internal spacer when changing wheels. If you tighten the axle without that spacer, the bearings will fail in a very short time.